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Mold Remediation

Al’s Carpet Cleaning & Restoration is an established mold restoration business serving Grants Pass and Medford for over 33 years. We provide mold remediation as well as fire and water damage restoration services. Our technicians and company are certified by the IICRC and licensed by the state of Oregon.

Warning: The following information is for your education only and not to be taken as instructions on how to do the job yourself. Some people have a very serious reaction to mold that can lead to long term health consequences or death. Specialized personal protection equipment needs to be used for most jobs and when not used correctly is ineffective. There are many factors to consider that most people would not take into account. If you have any question and would like us to take a look at a mold problem just call and we will inspect it for you at no charge.

Basic Mold facts

Mold spores exist everywhere. They are in your home, your place of work, and outdoors. Mold becomes a problem when it is growing in high concentrations. The one thing mold must have to remain actively growing is water or even high humidity. When moisture is not present then the spores become dormant waiting for the right conditions to start growing. When you see mold you are seeing the mycotoxins and not the spores. The mycotoxins are the byproduct of the spores consuming organic material. The favorite food for mold spores is drywall paper, especially the paper on the interior of the wall. Mold is restricted in it’s growth by air movement, lack of water and low or very high temperatures.
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Different Methods of Remediation Depending On The Severity

The method and precautions of the remediation plan for a specific mold problem is dictated by the sensitivity of the individuals exposed to it, the amount (square footage) of mold present, and of course any budget constraints of the homeowner. An important fact to remember is the bleach fallacy: bleach will kill mold spores but will not remove the mycotoxins which can cause health problems. The following information is from the NYC Department of health and the EPA: If you have less than 5 SF of mold on a non pourous surface and you are sure there is no mold behind the wall or ceiling the EPA recommends using rubber gloves, soap and water to clean the area and then dry it out. If you have more than 5 SF but less than 30 sf then taping plastic over the mold to seal in and then removing the wall material without disturbing the plastic and dispose in a plastic bag. Anything over 30 sf requires containment and possibly negative setup to prevent the spores from spreading to adjacent areas.
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Calling in a Hygienist

A Certified Hygenist will sometimes be called in to determine the specific type of fungi, the amount on surfaces and in the air, and if the mold is pathogenic (dangerous to humans). The charge for this can range from $750.00 to $5000.00. They can also write a protocall of remediation for the professional to follow when doing the job. Then when all work is completed post testing will be performed.
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Will my insurance pay for mold remediation?

Every policy is different. Some will cover all of the cost, some will pay up to a certain dollar amount, and some will exclude coverage completely. Read your policy and talk to your agent. In some cases a water damage job will be covered but not mold remediation but then you have to deal with the mold to do the water damage repair so it will be covered. Your policy is a contract between you and your insurance company and can be open to different interpretations. Your adjuster and your lawyer may have different interpretations and it may be worthwhile to pursue further if you are denied.
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Will mold make me sick?

There is only one answer to that. Seek the care of a health care professional. I’m a pretty smart guy but not a doctor.
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How do you do the work?

That like asking how long is a piece of string. It depends on many circumstances, but as a general rule:

  1. Inspect the job to determine the correct procedure.
  2. Contain the area with temporary walls to prevent the spread of mold spores.
  3. Put that area under negative air to create a vacuum.
  4. Apply an EPA registered fungicide to affected areas.
  5. Remove porous affected materials
  6. Remove visible mold
  7. Dry the areas using commercial dehumidifiers and possibly air movers.
  8. Grind and wood surfaces that show evidence of mold.
  9. Hepa vacuum all surfaces in the containment area
  10. Wet wipe all surfaces in the containment with an EPA registered fungicide.
  11. Apply a coating like paint that will prevent mold from growing on that coating for 15 years.
  12. Post testing if needed.
  13. Re build the area as needed.

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